Diary of Jedediah Strong SmithDiary
The Crossing of the Great Salt Lake Desert

North 25 Miles. My course was nearly parallel with a chain of hills in the west,
on the tops of which was some snow and from which ran a creek to the north east.
On this creek I encamped. The Country in the vicinity so much resembled that on
the south side of the Salt Lake that for a while I was induced to believe that I
was near that place. During the day I saw a good many Antelope, but could not
kill any. I however, killed 2 hares which, when cooked at night we found much
better than horse meat.

June 23d N E 35 Miles. Moving on in the morning I kept down the creek on which
we had encamped until it was lost in a small Lake. We then filled our horns and
continued on our course, passing some brackish as well as some verry salt
springs, and leaving on the north of the latter part of the days travel a
considerable Salt Plain. Just before night I found water that was drinkable, but
continued on in hopes of finding better and was obliged to encamp without any.

June 24th N E 40 Miles. I started verry early in hopes of soon finding water.
But ascending a high point of a hill I could discover nothing but sandy plains
or dry Rocky hills with the exception of a snowy mountain off to the N E at the
distance of 50 or 60 Miles. When I came down I durst not tell my men of the
desolate prospect ahead, but framed my story so as to discourage them as little
as possible. I told them I saw something black at a distance, near which no
doubt we would find water.
While I had been up on the hill one of the horses gave out and had been left a
short distance behind. I sent the men back to take the best of his flesh, for
our supply was again nearly exhausted, whilst I would push forward in search of
water.
I went on a shorter distance and waited until they came up. They were much
discouraged with the gloomy prospect, but I said all I could to enliven their
hopes and told them in all probability we would soon find water. But the view
ahead was almost hopeless.
With our best exertion we pushed forward, walking as we had been for a long
time, over the soft sand. That kind of traveling is verry tiresome to men in
good health who can eat when and what they choose, and drink as often as they
desire, and to us, worn down with hunger and fatigue and burning with thirst
increased by the blazing sands, it was almost insurportable.
At about 4 O Clock we were obliged to stop on the side of a sand hill under the
shade of a small Cedar. We dug holes in the sand and laid down in them for the
purpose of cooling our heated bodies. After resting about an hour we resumed our
wearysome journey, and traveled until 10 O Clock at night, when we laid down to
take a little repose. Previous to this and a short time after sun down, I saw
several turtle doves, and as I did not recollect of ever having seen them more
than 2 or 3 miles from water I spent more than an hour looking for water, but it
was in vain. Our sleep was not repose, for tormented nature made us dream of
things we had not and for the want of which it then seemed possible, and even
probable, that we might perish in the desert unheard of and unpitied.
In those moments how trifling were all those things that hold such an absolute
sway over the busy and the prosperous world. My dreams were not of Gold or
ambitious honors, but of my distant, quiet home, of murmuring brooks, of Cooling
Cascades. After a short rest we continued our march and traveled all night. The
[sound] murmur of falling waters still sounding in our ears and the apprehension
that we might never live to hear that sound in reality weighed heavily upon us.

June 25th. [The sun of this day arose on the parched waste and it seemed to us
that we were the most unhappy beings on which it poured its floods of light.]
When morning came it saw us in the same unhappy situation, pursuing our journey
over the desolate waste, now gleming in the sun and more insuportably tormenting
than it had been during the night. [About] at 10 O Clock Robert Evans laid down
in the plain under the shade of a small cedar, being able to proceed no further.
[We could do no good by remaining to die with him and we were not able to help
him along, but we left him with feelings only known to those who have been in
the same situation and with the hope that we might get relief and return in time
to save his life.]
The Mountain of which I have before spoken was apparently not far off, and we
left him and proceeded onward in the hope of finding water in time to return
with some in season to save his life. After traveling about [traveling about]
three Miles we came to the foot of the Mt and there, to our inexpressible joy,
we found water. Goble plunged into it at once, and I could hardly wait to bath
my burning forehead before I was pouring it down [in a] regardless of the
consequences.
Just before we arrived at the spring I saw two indians traveling in the
direction in which Evans was left, and soon after the report of two guns was
heard [was heard] in quick succession. This considerably increased our
apprehension for his safety, but shortly after a smoke was seen back on the
trail and I took a small kettle of water and some meat and going back, found him
safe. He had not seen the indians and had discharged his gun to direct me where
he lay, and for the same purpose had raised a smoke.
He was indeed far gone, being scarcely able to speak. When I came [within
hearing but was not yet in sight he] the first question he asked me was, have
you any water? I told him I had plenty and handed him the kettle, which would
hold 6 or 7 quarts, in which there was some meat mixed with the water. O says
he, why did you bring the meat and putting the kettle to his mouth he did not
take it away until he had drank all the water, of which there was at least 4 or
5 quarts, and then asked me why I had not brought more. This, however, revived
him so much that he was able to go on to the spring.
I cut the horse meat and spread it out to dry, and determined to remain for the
rest of the day that we might repose our wearied and emaciated bodies. I have at
different times suffered the extremes of hunger and thirst. Hard as it is to
bear for successive days the knawings of hunger, yet it is light in comparison
to the agony of burning thirst and, on the other hand, I have observed that a
man reduced by hunger is some days in recovering his strength. A man equally
reduced by thirst seems renovated almost instantaneously. Hunger can be endured
more than twice as long as thirst. To some it may appear surprising that a man
who has been for several days without eating has a most incessant desire to
drink, and although he can drink but little at a time, yet he wants it much
oftener than in ordinary circumstances.
In the course of the day several indians showed themselves on the high points of
the hills, but would not come to my camp.

26th June N 10 miles along a valley and encamped at some brackish water, having
passed during the day several salt springs and one Indian lodge. The lodge was
occupied by 2 indians, one squaw and 2 children. They were somewhat alarmed, but
friendly, and when we made signs to them of being hungry they cheerfully divided
with us some antelope meat. They spoke like the Snake Indians and by enquiry I
found that they were Pahnakkee's from Lewis's River. They had some pieces of
Buffalo Robes and told me that after a few days travel to the North East Buffalo
were plenty. Although they knew the Shoshones I could not learn any thing from
them in relation to the Salt Lake. In the evening I discovered from a high piece
of ground what appeared to be a large body of water.

June 27th North 10 Miles along a valley in which were many salt springs. Coming
to the point of the ridge which formed the eastern boundary of the valley I saw
an expanse of water Extending far to the North and East. The Salt Lake, a joyful
sight, was spread before us. Is it possible, said the companions of my
sufferings, that we are so near the end of our troubles. For myself I durst
scarcely believe that it was really the Big Salt Lake that [was before me] I
saw. It was indeed a most cheering view, for although we were some distance from
the depo, yet we knew we would soon be in a country where we would find game and
water, which were to us objects of the greatest importance and those which would
contribute more than any others to our comfort and happiness.
Those who may chance to read this at a distance from the [be surprised] scene
may perhaps be surprised that the sight of this lake surrounded by a wilderness
of More than 2000 [thousan] Miles diameter excited in me those feelings known to
the traveler, who, after long and perilous journeying, comes again in view of
his home. But so it was with me for I had traveled so much in the vicinity of
the Salt Lake that it had become my home of the wilderness.
After coming in view of the lake I traveled East, keeping nearly paralel with
the shore of the lake. At about 25 Miles from my last encampment I found a
spring of fresh water and encamped. The water during the day had been generally
Salt. I saw several antelope, but could not get a shot at them.

28th East 20 Miles, traveling nearly parallel with the shore of the Lake. When I
got within a mile of the outlet of the Uta Lake, which comes in from the south
East, I found the ground, which is thick covered with flags and Bulrushes,
overflowed to a considerable distance from the channel, and before I got to the
[channel] current the water had increased to between 2 & 3 feet and the cain
grass and Bulrushes were extremely thick.
The channel was deep and as the river was high was of course rapid and about 60
yards wide. As I would have to wade a long distance should I attempt to return
before I would find dry land, I determined to make a raft, and for this purpose
cut a quantity of Cain Grass, for of this material there was no want. The grass
I tied into Bundles, and, attaching them together, soon formed a raft
sufficiently strong to bear my things.
In the first place I swam and lead my horse over, the mule following, to the
opposite bank, which was also overflowed. I then returned and, attaching a cord
to the raft and holding the end in my mouth, I swam before the raft while the
two men swam behind. Unfortunately neither of my men were good swimmers, and the
current being strong, we were swept down a considerable distance, and it was
with great difficulty that I was enabled to reach the shore, as I was verry much
strangled.
When I got to the shore I put my things on the mule and horse and endeavored to
go out to dry land, but the animals mired [down] and I was obliged to leave my
things in the water for the night and wade out to the dry land. We made a fire
of sedge, and after eating a little horse flesh, we laid down to rest.

29th 15 Miles North Early in the morning I brought my things out from the water
and spread them out to dry. We were verry weak and worn down with suffering and
fatigue, but we thought ourselves near the termination of our troubles, for it
was not more than four days travel to the place where we expected to find my
partners.
At 10 O Clock we moved onward and after traveling 15 Miles encamped. Just before
encamping I got a shot at a Bear and wounded him badly, but did not kill him. At
supper we ate the last of our horse meat and talked a little of the probability
of our suffering being soon at an end. I say we talked a little, for men
suffering from hunger never talk much, but rather bear their sorrows in moody
silence, which is much preferable to fruitless complaints.

30th North 15 Miles I started early and as Deer were tolerably plenty I went on
ahead and about 8 O Clock got a shot at a Deer he ran off I followed him and
found a good deal of blood and told the men to stop while I should look for him.

I soon found him laying in a thicket. As he appeared nearly dead, I went up to
him, took hold of his horns, when he sprang up and ran off. I was vexed at
myself for not shooting him again when it was in my power, and my men were quite
discouraged. However, I followed on and in a short time found him again. I then
made sure of him by cutting his ham strings. It was a fine, fat Buck, and it was
not long before we struck up a fire and had some of his meat cooking. We then
employed ourselves most pleasantly in eating for about two hours and for the
time being forgot that we were not the happiest people in the world, or at least
thought but of our feast that was eaten with a relish unknown to a palace.
So much do we make our estimation of happiness by a contrast with our situation
that we were as much pleased with our fat venison on the bank of the Salt Lake
as we would have been in the possession of all the Luxuries and enjoyments of a
civilised life in other circumstances. These things may perhaps appear trifling
to most readers, but let any one of them travel over the sand plain as I did and
they will consider the killing of a buck a great achievement and certainly a
verry useful one. After finishing our repast the meat of the Deer was cut and
dried over the fire.

July 1st 25 Miles North along the shore of the Lake. Nothing material occurred.

2nd 20 Miles North East Made our way to the Cache. But Just before arriving
there I saw some indians on the opposite side of a creek. It was hardly worth
while as I thought, to be any wise careful, so I went directly to them and found
as near as I could judge by what I knew of the language to be a band of the
Snakes. I learned from them that the Whites, as they term our parties, were all
assembled at the little Lake, a distance of about 25 Miles. There was in [the]
this camp about 200 Lodges of indians and as the[y] were on their way to the
rendevous I encamped with them.

3d I hired a horse and a guide and at three O Clock arrived at the rendezvous.
My arrival caused a considerable bustle in camp, for myself and party had been
given up as lost. A small Cannon brought up from St. Louis was loaded and fired
for a salute.

* * *

My preparations being made I left the Depo on the 13th July 1827 with eighteen
men and such supplies as I needed. My object was to relieve my party on the
Appelamminy and then proceed further in examination of the country beyond Mt.
St. Joseph and along the sea coast. I of course expected to find Beaver, which
with us hunters is a primary object, but I was also led on by the love of
novelty common to all, which is much increased by the pursuit of its
gratification.